Italia

March 21

I can’t stop.  I came across a James Cordon carpool karaoke video this morning and now I literally can’t stop watching them.  I’m sitting on the couch  with my EarPods in and laughing out loud to the point of crying thinking about how much I love music and how magical it is to watch him just cut up with various singers and actors.  I fell in love with the show when I first saw the Paul McCartney episode, but now I just watch them all; even if I’m not that familiar with the performers.  Music has a way of soothing the soul and taking you to a different place; more into your soul and less in your head.  It certainly got my day off to a good start.  The rest of the day went well too.  We committed to very little news and instead got some exercise, cooked some great Italian food, and had a Godfather marathon.  I have never seen the Godfather movies - which seems insane, but I realized they came out when I was only about six years old.  It was amazing to see Robert DeNiro, James Caan, Marlon Brandon, and Al Pacino as young men at the start of their acting careers.   The cinematography, scenes in New York, Italy, Lake Tahoe and Las Vegas were stunning, and the acting…wow.  Thoroughly enjoyed parts one and two and still need to finish three…that’s a LOT of Godfather in a single day, but hey - the upside of quarantine.  Hope to finish the 3rd today.  

Ah Italy.  The olive oil, the wine, the landscape, the people, the culture, the spirit.  I find myself thinking so much about Italy these days - my friends there, my upcoming (and unlikely) wedding there this summer, the sunflowers, my experiences there over the past two years, the sights, the s smells, the sheer beauty of Italy.  I wrote a poem of sorts on my last trip there.  I think I will share it now.  Sometimes I like to just write random words as opposed to sentences and paragraphs.  It’s long but captures my last trip there so well.  I went to celebrate an old friend’s 50th birthday (my third trip to Italy in an 18 month period, and one of the best experiences ever).  We went with a group of about 30 people - we didn’t know most of them prior to going; an incredible group of people and a delightful adventure thoughtfully planned and designed by Mike’s wife, Dominique - I will be forever grateful for the delicious and gorgeous and laughter filled journey! 

Italy Words train of thought…….

#grappawithgreto

cobblestone streets of Rome

real room keys with tassels 

thirst quenched Aperol spritz and Limoncello

cocktail lounge

bright lights and beautiful bar

street food expedition

all the bread all the meat all the cheese

sunset over the Tiber

iPhone 11 captures it all

ancient ruins surround me

the old meets the new

crisp linens

delightful aperitivo

crisp chips and salty nuts

white wine

red wine

full moon over cathedral and fountain

salty cheesy tomatoey meaty garlicky

pistachio cookies

tastebuds delight

red wine

white wine

morning sun

walk through the neighborhood

cobblestones, bridges and sanctuaries

bird poop and theft

bus rides and glee

hangover or car sick

prosecco bubbles

bus rides

distracted angry bus driver

pit stops

more bubbles

laughter and neck braces

road to Greco

all the seafood

all the spaghetti

laundry flapping in the breeze

from the balconies and windows

overlooking the sea

arrivaderci!

slight delay who cares

all the joy

back on the bus

almost to Amalfi

winding goat strewn roads

narrow and harrowing

nail biting and breathtaking

how much more can we take

trees and eucalyptus and mountain and sea

around the bend yet again 

hairpin turn in a bus

don’t look down

we are on the “safe side”

now we aren’t

driver on the phone

is he ok

vomit comet

back up car

we are coming through

Ravello or bust

all the way to the top

suitcase suitcase suitcase

up the hill

through the cobblestones

into the beauty

of the Palazzo Avino

all the pink

all the green

all the sea

and flower and umbrella and arch and stone and beauty

unending water

and cliff and seaside

green and lush 

the smell of the sea

the sound of glee

push open the windows

breathe in the beauty

open the drawers

smell the shampoo

feel the slippers

drink more bubbles

shower and dress and reception

All the beautiful people

under the blackened sky lit by glorious moon

the Amalfi coast shimmers like Christmas lights along the shore

beckon

see me 

taste me

feel me

embrace me

wallow in me

don’t forget me

dive in my sea

taste my grapes

lush in their fullness

harvest time

scent of lemon and rosemary

earth and sea

taste of the ocean

ripe luscious tomatoes and fresh basil heaven

oil of olives

nuts of trees

hot steaming rich coffee

warm milk on the side

croissant croissant croissant

all the bread

all the time

over the hills and through the lemon and olive orchards

to the ruins 

locked door

no matter

beautiful views

spectacular walk

lovely laughter

Italian stylish hats and joyous smiles

the blue of the sea

juxtaposition of green and yellow and red and orange

and allll the colors of the Amalfi

bus ride grappa feel the burn

fields and vines and lemons and sun

friendships old and new

toasts and roasts and laughter and cake

love and gratitude

sharing

red wine

white wine

bubbles

not in that order

birthday love

beautiful meal

great conversation

smiles and laughter

sun reflected in the sea

saltwater on my skin, in my hair in my eyes

buoyancy

salty

fresh and cold

sore feet from the rocky bottom

full from the delicious feast

gratitude for the opportunity and beauty

yellow and pink and green and orange pastel houses and shops dot the hillsides

rocky ruins scattered throughout

laced with grapevines and olive trees and rugged cliffs

towering above the busy narrow streets 

boats and sails and smells

more red, white, and bubbles

warm bath

sleep.  hard hard sleep

rest day

walking and running through the hillside

down the hills 

through the streets

through the farms and the fields

hello little donkey

so many lizards

bright bright sun

parched yet happy

back up up up wayyyy up the hill

poolside

white wine white wine white wine by the glass by the bottle

all the sun

all the view

all the laughter

all the hats

all the sunglasses

bougainvillea purple

flowers in pink

different people yet all the same

taking it in

enjoying the beauty

loving Greto’s happiness

a trip well planned

by the love of his life

beautiful couple

happy for their joy and being surrounded by love

scent of the spa

warm massage

gentle relaxation

dancing in the room - all the Beatles, all the bubbles

fancy dinner

all the beautiful people

joy for our tastebuds

morning sickness (the alcohol kind not the baby kind)

too much wine food (who has the pepto)

should I go or should I stay

how can I get up when I’m possibly dying

not enough sleep….

delayed trip to Capri

better late than never

quivering stomach watching rocking of the boat

must sit up top to settle my stomach

salty cold sea air 

sunglasses and sun 

Bask jacket snuggles

Cliffs and rocks and ocean spray

Capri beauty

“convertible” cabs - pink and white and sea blue

smiles and photos and giggles from the back seat

oohs and ahhs of the views below

so much to see

so little time

gorgeous seaside deck

white and bamboo and blue and yellow and cocktails and tunes

dancing and laughing

and seafood  all the seafood

temptation room heaven

chocolate and fruit and pastry and cream

lemon tart

delicioso

perfecto

warm bath

early night 

last in Ravello

Italian music 

dimly lit cobblestone streets

red and white and bubbles

early morning

last coffee delivery

no croissants too early 

headed to Modena

train station scurrying and lugging of luggage and where is the bathroom

and then the ride

across the hills

through the fog

between the trees

in mostly silence

as we all processed

where we had been

what we had seen and felt and done

through the tunnels 

more potato chips and bubbles and espresso

gratitude for the million little details

thoughtfully curated

by our hosts

Bologna taxi line efficiency

trading euros for dollars with new friends

heading toward delight

the Casa Maria Luigia experience

like no other

brilliant in its beauty

every. last. detail. perfection.

beautiful villa

exquisite rooms

Gucci wallpaper leaf and vine

wall to wall to wall albums

art and music and music and art

and design

the refrigerator!!!

snacks under glass prepared just for us

pink bubbles

black cabinets and walls

and white and black fragile china

two cherry art

leaf drawing

meanwhile the outdoors

the lush fresh gardens

red “door to the garden”

small “she shed” 

swinging with joy

poolside delight

coca cola in the poolhouse

the time is always NOW

fountains and trees and grass and rosemary

olives and birch and cypress and oak trees

ai wei wei and legos

hidden bar in the cocktail room

waving hands framed

all angles

leather and velvet

wood and bourbon and gin and vodka and wine

poolside mummy 

brief nap in the quiet dark of the gorgeous room

art tour!

be ready

Lara delights with her words 

about words

and their importance and significance and power and potential

words carry meaning

be it hateful or kind

and last forever

the words

quotes in light

art in color

art in black and white

red white and fucking blue

perfectly placed and balanced

tables art too

the sea tucked in the drawer of one 

amidst the leather chairs

glass chandeliers

accidentally left

and repurposed

as if they always belonged in this spot

above the check in

next to the ying and yang sofas

carefully handpicked by Massimo and Lara

welcoming all to their glorious space

the soft evening light floating over the cobblestones

between the villa and the carriage house

now a glorious kitchen and dining room

only room for twenty

bubbles and red and white await

the beautifully dressed friends

who now are closer

through experience 

and joy

art on the walls 

Damien Hirst 

a play on drug labels

and nourishment

simplicity

followed by so much flavor in tiny dishes

oysters meet lime granita

broth and caviar and crunch

animated love and joy by chef Jessica

beautiful food

more bubbles and white and red

the five ages of parmesan light and crisp and full and creamy and foamy

piece de resistance

the crunchy part of the lasagna

to be eaten with your fingers

dipping the overcooked baked again pasta in the sauce and the cheese and the love

the next the favorite for me

the spinning plates

allllll the colors - the green, red, yellow, orange

pure vegetables disguised as splattered art

on bright white plate trimmed in silver

beef coated in herbs - sous vide the word and need of the day

let’s buy one!

recreate this dish

impossible yet lofty

I love it

melt in your mouth

Nebbiolo alongside

Langhe

Casa E. Di Mirafiore

nothing like it

crusty bread to lick the plate

literally

recommended by chef

cheesy salty delectable tortellini as palate cleanse…more more more

chocolate and raspberry

deconstructed lemon tart - capers, salt, basil, tiny pieces of art alongside

broken yet perfect.  

It’s perfect

its broken

just like southern italy

leave space in your life for poetry

when something imperfect happens its perfect

WWMD

How to break the rules

let me count the ways

so much heart

in all the words

of all the people

break the rules

live by the rules

you get one life

it’s yours

see the world

feel the love

examine the beauty

the details

making a playlist

in the midst of the laughs

not quite right

but not quite wrong

too tired and full to dance 

want to just process all of it 

so many emotions

“full”ish moon over the courtyard (foolish?) fullish? I like to make up my own words

the glow of the night is lovely

the lights of the kitchen bright

no room left for nightcap

more love of the art

feeling all the feels

on the last night in Modena.  the only night in Modena

there will be more nights in Modena 

of this I am sure

Rough night of sleep

Early morning coffee in the garden 

followed by breakfast of kings and queens in the carriage house (9 courses 9 hours ago)

Gardens and fountains and art and music and food and wine

oh my

People enjoying Paris and Venice and allll the other places now

scattered over Italy and France and elsewhere

Off to San Gimignano for a quick dance with my memories

Of birthdays of my own, of vines and friends, and my son Zach

With whom I shared a glorious adventure here

Through the fields of sunflowers in the summer

though the cobblestoned streets of Siena and Lucca and San Gimignano

With wine and cheese and picnics and Brunello and Grappa

Rekindling friendships and building new here on this journey

grateful for all of it

sunshine and laughter

more bubbles and white and red

in this special place

that has my heart

whatsapp continues

the funny and silly and heartfelt

the travel woes and travel joys

the hives, the luggage, the photos, the friendships

all thanks to you Mike Greto 

So glad to know you

and now to get know your people

thank you for sharing

thank you for all of it (Domi and Mike)

Here’s to 50 years on this planet 

and the next 50 with all the joy, tears, learning, love, grace, beauty, and hugs

Back to reality and all of its different yet wonderful beauty.  

Home sweet home.  Half the beauty of travel is the coming home.  

All the love for Italy right now.  The suffering there is real.  The fear is real. The death toll from covid-19 is real.  May this beautiful country recover soon and may the bells ring throughout the squares and the sun shine on this beautiful land and these beautiful people.  Until I see you again.  

14ADA45A-2A64-4160-A043-3E02E4BB53DB.JPG